The author at a fish-camp-turned-restaurant in
Jacksonville, Fla.
Photo courtesy of Keith Gery
By Keith Gery
Special to Lehigh Valley Source
The Quest for a Philly Cheesesteak
At the publishing company that hired me was a woman with whom I had worked in Pennsylvania about 15 years prior. She was the reason I ended up in Jacksonville, having told me to apply for this job while I was still in Pennsylvania. So she took it upon herself to show me around and introduce me to some of the Southern Delights.
After years of seeing cows walk in the back door of butcher shops and then carrying them out the front door wrapped in brown butcher paper, I was ready to try native cuisine. We left my apartment in Jacksonville’s southside, picked up 295 around the city and exited on one of the busiest thoroughfares I’d ever seen. With a few quick turns, we were suddenly on a parking lot surrounded by tall trees, the sound of water and a line waiting to get inside the former fish-camp-on-the-river-now-turned-public-restaurant. I paused to admire a fake alligator lying outside the door, while my friend went inside to reserve a table.
As we waited outside for our turn to be seated, we stood on a dock with pellet-filled vending machines. As I tried to figure out the pellets, huge black and orange turtles swam up to the dock area and begged for food. And a bigger-than-I’d-ever-imagined softshell turtle joined the crowd. Fish swarmed around the turtles, darting over and under the floating reptiles, wherever there was water to sustain them. It was Herpetology Heaven as I coaxed the turtles closer and watched them stretch their necks to grab the pellets before they sank down to the fish.
After reviewing the menu inside, I decided to chance fried catfish, gator tail, and a deep fried pickle, accompanied by the liquid sugar known as sweet tea. Although the deep-fried gator tail was nondescript in taste, the dipping sauce applied to it added a tangy flavor. I was hesitant about eating the catfish because I know what they eat. But after assurances that the menued catfish were farm-raised, I bit into the bony fillet and found a new fishy delight. I tasted the pickle, but I based my judgment on my mother’s canned pickles we always had in our basement. All in all, it was a superb dining experience.
After a couple days of experimenting with local dishes and relying on more familiar fast-food fare, my taste buds lit up for the familiarity of a cheesesteak. But I had no idea where to get one or if they were even available on this side of the Line. I began to panic, and my addiction to the hefty messy sandwich intensified as I began the quest for a real Philly cheesesteak. Little did I know at the time, but this adventure would continue for years in various corners of the state.
Throughout the Pennsylvania years at Brandywine Heights High School, Kutztown University, and my downtown Kutztown apartment, cheesesteaks were an all-inclusive food group. One cheesesteak accounted for grains and starch in the roll, meat group in the beef, dairy products in the cheese, and vegetables in the onions and peppers. There was even lycopene in the sauce for my prostate. And of course, the fifth food group of fats and sugars was always evident in the food remnants on the plate.
Mark’s Sandwich Shop in Kutztown was the main source of cheesesteaks for decades because of the quality and convenience. My frequent visits resulted in friendships with several owners over the years, but the excellence of the sandwiches remained constant. Of course, on weekends there were roadtrips to the Brass Rail locations throughout the Lehigh Valley for their legendary fare. As time went on and friends and I became more adventurous, trips to see the Flyers or Phillies always resulted in an actual PHILLY cheesesteak somewhere in South Philly near the stadiums.
Jacksonville, however, was sorely lacking in cheesesteak quality. Over the ensuing weeks and years, I searched for a true Philly cheesesteak throughout Florida, but everything paled to the memory of the real thing. Oh, one could find cheesesteaks on menus all over town. But they weren’t Philly cheesesteaks. They lacked the tasty sauce or the fried onions. Most of the time, the meat was not chipped, but was a patty on a bed of goop in a hard roll. Once I even got one with the liquid spray cheese all over it.
The closest one I found was on a trip to meet some Pennsylvania friends on the other side of the state in Clearwater, the spring training grounds of the Phillies. I missed my friends as they ventured someplace else to take in a game, so I went on a search as I had become prone to do. I found this hole-in-the-wall steak shop with a flashing red sign advertising Philly Cheesesteaks. It was near the home of the Phillies, so I ordered one and was pleasantly surprised at how near it came to the real thing, but it really only made me homesick for the real thing. Close, but no cigar.
With all the northerners coming to Florida for games, vacations, and retirements, one would expect to find an exact version of a Philly cheesesteak. I couldn’t find one anywhere, but I never gave up. Every diner, restaurant, deli, and bar I visited became a stop in my search for the real cheesesteak. Sometimes I’d finish the sandwich, many times I couldn’t. My expectations far outweighed my hunger.
There was a chicken place I frequented in Jacksonville because it had a vast assortment of flavors and temperatures in the wings. Also, it was kind of a Hooters rip-off, so the scantily-clad female servers did provide a nice distraction.
Many times I had looked at the menu, but on one particular occasion I noticed the addition of Philly cheesesteaks. With a sigh, I mentioned to my server that I’d like to try it, but I expected total disappointment, like in every other eating establishment I’d visited in Florida. She questioned my negative attitude, and I explained I was hard to please on the cheesesteaks because I was from “north of Philly.” (I had already given up saying I was from Topton, Kutztown, Reading, or Allentown. “North of Philly” was something that seemed to give these folks some sort of geographical reference.)
She smiled, said the new chef was from the Philadelphia area, and yanked him out of the kitchen. I explained my dilemma, and he peacocked his chest with a great smile.
“I can make you the perfect cheesesteak,” he pontificated. “I’m from West Chester, P – A. Went to college in West Chester, P – A.”
The very act of using the Pennsylvanian term for Pennsylvania excited me. I was ecstatic, virtually orgasmic. My cheesesteak quest appeared to be over, and the answer was within two miles of my apartment.
“I’ll take a cheesesteak . . . the biggest one you have,” I drooled. “No, no . . . I’ll take two. Wrap one to go. The biggest you have. Everything on them.”
“Onions?” asked the chef.
I nodded.
“Peppers?” asked the chef.
“The hottest you have!” I screamed, already sweating in anticipation.
“Cheese?” he asked.
Bells started going off in my head. I ordered a CHEESE steak, so of course I wanted cheese. And then it happened.
“Did you want mayo?” he asked.
“Mayo? On a cheesesteak?” I asked. “Did you say mayo?”
He nodded, and I realized how close I had come to being hoodwinked again, suckered in by the delirium of my hunt.
“Give me a basket of wings,” I said, as I turned my back on the grease-covered charlatan in white and looked out the window at the huge lake in back of the restaurant.
Somewhere, out there, was a real Philly cheesesteak, and I would find it. For the sake of every snowbird down here, I would not rest until I found a real Philly cheesesteak.
I grabbed my basket of wings and watched the waitress wiggle away from the table.
Copyright 2009 Keith Gery
